Archive for August, 2009

Genuinely lucky

Monday, 10th August 2009; 1:19 pm - Location: ,

The weather cleared up OK as I rode toward Traverse City. I stopped to take off my rain gear and made a big mistake. I trusted the scooter’s little kickstand (instead of it’s main center stand) on an uneven surface, and it failed to hold him up. I saw him start to go, and reached for him, but was too late. Crash. Fortunately, the only damage was to the left brake lever, which snapped right off.

I still had one working brake so the scooter was ridable, but not very safe. I tried calling the Genuine dealer in Charlevoix, my next stop, but the number was disconnected. The web site is down too. I tried a Vespa/Piaggio/RV dealer I found listed just south of TC on M-37, but he didn’t have anything that fit. So after calling to make sure someone was there and could help, I scooted back to Frankfort, which I had zipped though through yesterday. Bayside Cycles is the last Genuine dealer on the trip until Green Bay, so in that sense I’m pretty lucky that it didn’t happen any later in the trip than this.

It wasn’t a huge detour, since I’d already doublebacked from Leelanau State Park to near Traverse City when it happened. I took US-31 most of the way, which was a pain because of the traffic stacked up behind me… and oncoming, so they can’t pass. It got worse closer to Frankfort, where it got hilly. Going uphill I slowed to 20mph and going downhill I was cautiously riding the single brake I had, for fear of going too fast and needing both of them. And shortly before reaching Frankfort it turned cold and foggy. I turned on my hazards and road the shoulder. For the ride back to Traverse, I think I’m going to take more of the same route I took yesterday (closer to the lakeshore), which wasn’t so bad.

As for the rest of the day’s plans, riding out and back on Old Mission Peninsula is out, but I can still make it to Charlevoix, assuming all goes well.

Leelanau State Park night

Sunday, 9th August 2009; 9:46 pm - Location:

The surf abruptly picked up at 9:30pm. My original hopeful hypothesis was that a passing freighter had kicked it up. But after 5 minutes I had to conclude that it was probably something atmospheric on the other side of the Lake. Presumably coming this way. The forecast is pretty confident about rain tomorrow morning especially, so I have to take it as a presumed fact. Everything has to be water-secured tonight. Anything in the tent or under the rain fly is safe; I know that from experience on Isle Royale. The scooter’s pet carrier looks safe, but I haven’t tested that yet. For the rest, the rain cover I bought for my backpack (tested only for that use) and my raincoat, combined with placement up on the picnic table, will have to do.

Based on the forecast, tomorrow could be the most miserable day of the trip. Rain could certainly spoil what might otherwise be the most scenic day of the excursion, following the shore of Grand Traverse Bay. The forecast does hint that the chance of rain will be less in the afternoon (instead of just “rain” it says “rain likely”), so it could turn into another day of waiting out the weather.

Leelanau State Park

Sunday, 9th August 2009; 7:51 pm - Location:

My WordPress iPhone app doesn’t support replying to comments so I’ll post this response as a regular entry:

Traffic hasn’t been bad. I’ve had a few jerks tail me too close and then blow past me, and at one point near Muskegon I was convinced that the county had an unusually high number per capita. But for the most part the worst I’ve experienced have been people passing me when I didn’t think it was safe for them. I’m such a mother. 🙂

After yesterday’s improv, I mostly stuck to my planned route today. I skipped some of the Sunday-driving sightseeing detours in my plans just because they were too much hassle to keep track of. For example I just stuck to M-22 and the county roads that lead to Leelanau State Park rather than winding my way through the peninsula. I planned out a complex route to maximize my Bay time on the Old Mission Peninsula tomorrow, but I’m sure I’ll just wing it.

The state park here is rather nice. It’s at land’s end on the Leelanau Peninsula, and my campsite has a great view of the water. The ranger said “great site” when I signed in, and another camper said the same thing when she overheard him giving me directions. They’re right. It’s technically the only site “on the shore”, which means there’s no road or substantial treeline between it and the shoreline, but it’s still a good distance from the water itself.

The park service also described the site as being next to the foundations of the original lighthouse, which is true… but there really isn’t much to see: just a bit of a indentation in the ground with some rocks and trees lining it. The later lighthouse (a fairly traditional-looking house with a light on top of it) and the current light (a rotating beacon on antenna-style platform) are a little more to look at.

This park is “rustic” (no electricity or flush toilets), and nowhere near as busy (or as parkinglotty) as Ludington. It’s heavily wooded (arbor vitae), so the sites have a little privacy, and there are quite a few vacancies. So I didn’t need a reservation here… except probably to get this site, which is why I reserved it way back when.

Leland

Sunday, 9th August 2009; 7:40 pm - Location:

I’ve stopped in Leland (on the Leelanau Peninsula north of Sleeping Bear) for dinner. I stop this long with a little trepidation, because there’s a hint of rain in the air, and I probably have another half hour on the road before I reach the state park at the tip of the peninsula. It’s actually getting cold along the Lakeshore, and the campground will be surrounded on three sides by water. And to think I was worrying about it being too hot to sleep tonight.

I filled up the scooter in Glen Arbor (still in Sleeping Bear territory), being unsure where I’d find gas on the peninsula. The gas station has a Genuine RoughHouse on display for rent, from the Genuine dealer in Frankfort. I haven’t noticed a gas station since then (except here in Leland of course), so it was a smart move.

I’m eating at the Bluebird Tavern, which I’d vaguely remembered (not by name) from being in Leland to catch the ferry to North Manitou Island a couple times before. It’s part of a complex that includes the Early Bird (breakfast only) and a more formal and expensive dining room. I’m having fish & chips and a beer. I thought about picking up a bottle of local wine, but the challenge of where to keep it until it’s finished, combined with the fact that I don’t have a corkscrew, persuaded me not to. Leelanau wines aren’t hard to find back home, after all.

Sleeping Bear Dunes

Sunday, 9th August 2009; 7:36 pm - Location:

Sleeping Bear Dunes is kind of like an old friend, especially since I’ve been here twice in the last several years. I took the scenic drive for tourists which is part of the park, which is a little different experience on a scooter than in a car: a little more personal (especially with the face shield of my helmet up) and a little more harrowing going down wet hills with no cage around me. The weather’s hazy, so the views weren’t spectacular today.

I stopped at the ever-popular dune climb but didn’t go up. Been there, done that, and I’m trying to relax on this trip, not get in shape or “test” myself. And did you know that there’s a nature trail at the dune climb (not up the dune)? Anyway, the whole SBD stop was more of a “pop in” to see the place, not a destination, which is why this report is a little perfunctory.

Arcadia

Sunday, 9th August 2009; 12:51 pm - Location:

I’ve stopped for lunch at the Northwood Cafe in Arcadia. It’s a nice little place where everyone who comes in seems to know everyone else. They have a limited menu this noon close to closing time, with just a few sandwiches. Limited to the point that the waitress didn’t even give me a menu; she just told me what they had. I opted for the gyro (which she pronounced correctly, but no one else there today did).

The weather has take a turn for the cloudy and windy. I’d even call it “cool” when the wind comes off the lake. I’ve felt a few little drops but no actual rain.

The busboy advises me that AT&T coverage around here is horrible. I can see that from the “no service” indicator in the corner. I assured him that I didn’t need the phone service at the moment. Heck, I hardly ever use my iPhone as a phone, but a lack of internet access gets frustrating at times.